A Japanese auction sheet is the inspection report the auction house writes for every car it sells. You read it in three steps: the overall grade, the interior and exterior grades, and the damage map codes. Letters show the type of damage and numbers show its size, but the exact rules vary slightly between auction houses.
Key takeaways
- The overall grade runs from S or 6 (almost new) down to 1. R means the car has a repair history to its frame or structure.
- On the damage map, the letter is the type of damage (A scratch, U dent, W repair mark, XX replaced) and the number is the size (1 small, 3 large).
- Codes and grade limits differ a little between auctions. Always ask your exporter to translate the inspector’s notes.
What is a Japanese auction sheet?
It is the auction’s own condition report. Inspectors working for the auction check each car before the sale and fill in a standard sheet. Most of it is in Japanese.
The sheet is useful because the inspector is not the seller. But it records what a trained inspector sees in a short check. It is not a mechanical test or a warranty.
If you are new to auctions, start with how to buy a car from a Japanese auction.
The main parts of the sheet
Layouts differ between auction houses, but most sheets have the same blocks.
- Header: auction name, date and lot number.
- Car details: model name and grade, model code, chassis number, year, engine size, fuel, transmission (AT/MT/CVT), colour code and number of doors and seats.
- Mileage: in kilometres, sometimes with a symbol in front (see below).
- Use history: whether the car was privately owned or used as a rental or business car.
- Equipment: short codes such as AC or AAC (manual or automatic air conditioning), AW (alloy wheels), SR (sunroof), plus navigation and leather.
- Grades: the overall grade and the interior and exterior grades.
- Damage map: a drawing of the car with codes on each panel.
- Inspector’s notes: handwritten or typed remarks in Japanese. These often matter most.
- Tyres: some sheets show remaining tread for each tyre.
Overall grades explained
The overall grade sums up the car’s condition in one mark. Here is the common scale. The age and mileage limits for the top grades differ between auction houses.
| Grade | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| S (some auctions also use 7, just below S) | Almost new. Very young, very low mileage. |
| 6 | Nearly new condition. At AUCNET, under 36 months old and up to 30,000 km. |
| 5 | Very clean inside and out, only minor marks. |
| 4.5 | Good used car, light wear only. |
| 4 | Normal used car. Some scratches or small dents that can be fixed without replacing panels. |
| 3.5 | More visible scratches and dents, or several areas that need work. |
| 3 | Many areas need repair. |
| 2 | Poor condition, low value as it stands. |
| 1 | Special problem cars, such as flood or fire damage, heavy modification or other serious defects. |
| R (RA at some auctions) | Repair history: the frame or structure has been repaired. Some auctions use RA for a lighter repair. |
| 0, *** or similar | Special cases used by some auctions, for example cars not graded in the normal way or sold as they are. The meaning differs between auctions, so ask what it means on that sheet. |
A useful point: “R” is about the car’s structure, not every accident. A car with minor bodywork, such as a repainted door, can still get a normal grade like 4. A car with a repaired frame gets R even if it looks perfect.
For a side-by-side look at the most common export grades, see auction grade 3.5 vs 4 vs 4.5.
Interior and exterior grades
Many auctions grade the interior and exterior separately with letters, where A is the best. Some use A to E and some A to D. One large auction operator (AUCNET) uses stars instead.
- A: very clean, almost nothing to fix.
- B: small marks, burns or stains that do not need much work.
- C: visible wear that needs some work or cleaning.
- D: needs real repair, such as re-covering seats or bodywork.
- E: needs major work.
Damage map codes
The letter tells you the type of damage and the number tells you the size. 1 is small and 3 is large, and some auctions go up to 4.
Sizes are described differently at each auction. For example, one auction describes a U1 dent as about golf-ball size, a U2 as about tennis-ball size and a U3 as about football size.
| Code | Meaning |
|---|---|
| A1, A2, A3 | Scratch (line scratch), small to large |
| U1, U2, U3 | Dent without a scratch, small to large |
| B1, B2, B3 (or AU) | Dent with a scratch |
| W1, W2, W3 | Repair mark or wavy panel from bodywork. W1 is hard to see; W3 needs re-doing. |
| P1, P2, P3 | Paint problem: fading, colour difference or peeling |
| S1, S2, S3 | Rust |
| C1, C2, C3 | Corrosion (worse than surface rust) |
| X, X1, X2, X3 | Crack or damage that needs the part replaced, often used for bumpers and glass |
| XX | Panel already replaced |
| G | Stone chip on the windscreen |
You can tap any code in our auction sheet decoder to see what it means.
Mileage symbols
Some auctions put a symbol before the mileage to warn buyers. For example, JAA and HAA Kobe use:
- * for a tampered odometer
- $ for a replaced odometer
- # for unknown mileage
Other auctions write the warning in the notes. If you see any symbol or note next to the mileage, ask your exporter what it means before you bid.
How to read a sheet in five minutes
- Check the chassis number and year match the car you were offered. Also check that the year fits your country’s age rule; the import age checker helps.
- Look at the overall grade. If it says R, ask what was repaired.
- Look at the interior and exterior letters to see what kind of cleaning or bodywork to expect.
- Scan the damage map for W, XX, S and C codes. Repairs, replaced panels and rust tell you more than small scratches.
- Get the notes translated. Engine noises, warning lights, oil leaks, water damage and smoke smell are often only in the notes.
Then compare the sheet with the photos. You can see many graded cars in our current stock. Ask our sales team for the sheet of any car you like.
What the sheet does not tell you
- How the car drives over a long distance. The engine and gearbox get only a short check.
- Everything under the car. Underbody rust and leaks may be only partly visible.
- Full service history. Use the export certificate and any service booklet for that.
Our guide on checking a car’s history shows how to cross-check the sheet with other documents.
Frequently asked questions
What is a good auction grade for export?
Grades 4 and 4.5 are the most common choice for buyers who want a clean car without paying for a near-new one. Grade 3.5 can be fine if the damage map shows only small, cosmetic marks.
Is an R grade car dangerous?
Not always. R means the structure was repaired, and quality varies. Ask what was repaired, look at photos of that area and expect a lower resale value.
Are auction sheet codes the same at every auction?
Mostly, but not exactly. Grade limits, sizes and some codes differ between auction houses, so ask your exporter to confirm anything unclear.
Can an auction sheet be fake?
A picture of a sheet can be edited. Get the sheet from your exporter directly and check that the chassis number matches the car.
Sources
- AUCNET: How vehicle condition grading works (Japanese; grades, star ratings and damage symbols; checked 1 Oct 2026)
- How to read JAA and HAA Kobe auction sheets (Japanese; grades, damage codes and mileage symbols; checked 1 Oct 2026)
- Miyake Seal: Auction grades and damage codes (Japanese auction agent; checked 1 Oct 2026)
