A grade 4.5 car is very clean for its age with only a few small marks. A grade 4 is a good used car with normal minor scratches and dents. A grade 3.5 is an average used car with more visible marks and wear that may need some cosmetic work. None of these three grades means the car has had an accident repair. That is shown as R or RA.
Key takeaways
- The overall grade (S, 6, 5, 4.5, 4, 3.5, 3, 2, 1, R, RA) sums up the car’s condition. The interior grade (A to E) is separate.
- The step from 3.5 to 4 to 4.5 is mostly about how many marks there are and how big they are, not about accidents.
- R and RA mean repair history. Other grades mean no repair to the car’s frame was found.
- Always read the car map and the inspector’s notes. Two cars with the same grade can be very different.
- Grading standards vary slightly between auction houses, so treat the grade as a summary, not a guarantee.
How the overall grade scale works
Major Japanese auction houses, such as USS, give each car an overall grade based on the body, interior, age and mileage. Higher is better.
The table shows what each grade usually means. Exact definitions differ a little from one auction house to another.
| Grade | What it usually means |
|---|---|
| S | Practically new: registered recently, very low mileage, no damage |
| 6 | Almost new: a few years old at most, low mileage, almost no damage |
| 5 | Excellent: low mileage, only marks you have to look hard for |
| 4.5 | Very good: light wear for its age, a few small scratches or dents |
| 4 | Good: normal used-car scratches and small dents |
| 3.5 | Average: several visible scratches and dents, interior wear, may need some repair |
| 3 | Below average: many marks, possibly rust or panels needing work |
| 2 | Poor: heavy damage or corrosion |
| 1 | Special cases, such as flood damage, heavy modification or serious defects |
| R / RA | Repair history: the car’s frame or structural parts have been repaired or replaced. RA usually marks a lighter repair than R. |
| 0 or *** | Special cases used by some auctions, often cars not given a normal grade or sold as seen. The meaning differs between auctions, so ask. |
In Japan, “repair history” refers to damage to the car’s frame and structural parts. A replaced bumper or a repainted door on its own does not make a car R.
Interior grades A to E
Most auction sheets also show a separate letter for the interior, usually from A to E.
- A: very clean, almost no wear.
- B: light wear, small marks.
- C: visible wear or stains that need cleaning or minor repair.
- D: heavy wear, such as tears, burns or strong stains.
- E: very poor; parts need replacing.
The interior letter can tell a different story from the number. A 4B and a 4D are both grade 4, but the second one will need much more work inside.
You can browse Autocom Japan’s current stock and ask our sales team about the condition of any car before you decide.
Grade 4.5 in practice
A 4.5 car looks very good for its age. Expect only a few small marks on the map, such as A1 or U1.
The interior is usually A or B. Mileage is often low for the car’s age. This grade gets harder to reach as a car gets older, so an older car graded 4.5 has usually been well looked after.
Good for buyers who want a car they can use straight away with little or no body work.
Grade 4 in practice
A 4 car is a normal, good used car. It will have some small scratches and dents, maybe a few A2 or U2 marks, and wear that matches its age.
The interior is often B, sometimes C. There may be a repainted or replaced panel, but no frame repair.
For many private buyers, grade 4 is the best balance between condition and price.
Grade 3.5 in practice
A 3.5 car is an average used car with more signs of life. Expect several scratches and dents across the body, some of them larger (A3, U3 or B marks), and more interior wear.
The car has no recorded frame repair, but it may need paintwork, panel repair or a good clean inside. Higher mileage and older cars often end up at 3.5 even when they are mechanically fine.
A 3.5 can be good value if the damage is cosmetic and in places you can fix locally. Look carefully for rust (S or C marks), especially underneath and around the wheel arches.
What to read on the sheet map
The car map shows exactly where the marks are. The letter tells you the type of damage and the number tells you the size, from 1 (small) to 3 (large).
- A: scratch.
- U: dent.
- B: dent with a scratch.
- W: wavy surface, usually a sign of a past repair.
- S or C: rust or corrosion.
- X: part needs replacing. XX: part has been replaced.
Codes can vary a little by auction, so use our auction sheet decoder to check any code you are not sure about.
Pay most attention to:
- Rust and corrosion, which can spread and costs more to fix than scratches.
- W or XX marks near pillars, sills or the rear panel, which can point to bigger past work.
- The inspector’s notes, written in Japanese, which may mention engine noise, oil leaks, warning lights or flood signs. Ask for a translation.
- Mileage, which should match the export certificate and other documents.
For the full layout of the sheet, read our beginner’s guide to the Japanese auction sheet.
Why the grade alone is not enough
The grade is a quick summary made by an inspector on one day. It is useful, but it does not tell you everything.
- Auction houses grade differently. A 3.5 at one auction may be close to a 4 at another.
- Age and mileage affect the grade. An older car can be very clean and still only get 3.5 or 4.
- The inspection is mostly visual. It is not a full mechanical test, so the notes matter.
- Your country’s inspection is separate. A pre-shipment inspection, such as QISJ for Kenya, checks the car against your country’s rules. A good auction grade does not replace it.
Which grade suits which buyer
- First-time private buyers who want to drive the car as it arrives: look at 4 or 4.5, with interior A or B.
- Buyers on a tighter budget who have a trusted mechanic and panel beater: a 3.5 with only cosmetic marks can be good value.
- Small dealers who repair and prepare cars before selling: 3.5 and 4 cars often give the most room to add value.
- Anyone unsure about R or RA cars: ask exactly what was repaired and check your country’s rules on damaged or repaired vehicles before you buy.
If you are buying through an auction agent, our guide on how to buy a car from a Japanese auction explains the process. When you pay, send money only to the company’s own account in Japan. See how to avoid scams when buying cars from Japan.
Frequently asked questions
Is grade 3.5 a bad car?
No. It means average condition with visible wear and marks. Many 3.5 cars are sound and only need cosmetic work, so read the map and notes.
Does grade 4 mean the car has never had an accident?
It means no repair to the car’s frame or structural parts was recorded. It may still have repaired or repainted panels, so check the map.
What is the difference between R and RA?
Both mean repair history. RA usually marks a lighter repair than R, but the exact line differs between auction houses, so ask what was repaired.
What does 4B mean?
Overall grade 4 with an interior grade of B: a good used car with light interior wear.
Can the auction grade be faked?
Sheets can be edited by a fake seller. Ask for the full sheet from the seller you are paying, and check that the chassis number and mileage match the other documents.
